Artichokes with Lemon-Tarragon Aioli | Troubleshooting Aioli

Thanks L for entrusting me with these vintage artichoke plates

Artichokes are produced year round in California and the peak season is from March to May. On the East Coast, I’m starting to see more globe and baby artichokes on the shelves in supermarkets. It’s a no-brainer to stick them in the steam oven. Then indicate the size of the artichokes in the oven setting. These smart hi-tech convection steam ovens invariably cook the artichokes to perfection. With merely AI, the machine needs very little human intervention. It’s taking over my kitchen! What’s left for me to do is simply picking an appropriate recipe to highlight the deliciousness of artichokes. I decided on Ina Garten’s artichokes with lemon-tarragon aioli.

Aioli is a classic Provencal garlic mayonnaise that is traditionally served with bouillabaisse, simple meats, grilled fish and vegetables. The tangy lemon and the slight anise of fresh tarragon are the right complements to brighten the earthy flavor of artichokes.

Steaming artichokes may be a no-brainer, but making the aioli is not. I have limited experience with aioli. Ina makes her aioli in a food processor. Mise en place were: lemon juice, saffron threads, egg yolks, garlic cloves, two kinds of oil, fresh tarragon and lemon zest. Started by pulsing all the ingredients in a food processor, while pouring in the oil very slowing. Unfortunately, my aioli turned out nothing like a thick emulsion of a mayonnaise, but more like a salad dressing,

What to do? I urgently needed to troubleshoot and restore the runny aioli to its proper consistency. Google search is extremely helpful at moments like these. Without completely starting over, I used another egg yolk, at room temperature. Meanwhile, I started noticing that all the aioli recipes have one thing in common: use egg yolks at room temperature. That was the important lesson I’ve learned from this exercise. (In fact, all the ingredients should be at room temperature since warmth speeds the transfer of emulsifiers from the yolk particles to the fat droplet surfaces, and bonding them to each other.) Next, I whisked up the egg yolk in a bowl until thickened. Then poured the broken aioli (transferred into a measuring cup from the food processor) into the egg yolk, a little at a time, and whisked briskly until the emulsion formed. Voila, the fix has worked its magic.

A good friend of mine gifted me a set of her mom’s artichoke plates, which I’m using here. There is a spot to hold the aioli and a spot to hold the leaves on the plate. These plates are just perfect to bring out the beauty of the artichokes with the lemon-tarragon aioli. Most of all, I’m appreciative of the thoughts and love in gifting me these gorgeous vintage plates from the dining collection of a lifelong and accomplished home cook. I only wish I can cook memorable food the way she did for her family.

Steaming of the artichokes is taken over by the steam oven

Be sure to use egg yolks at room temperature in whisking up the aioli

Print Recipe

Artichokes with Lemon-Tarragon Aioli

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 medium artichokes
• 1/2 lemon, halved
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon Pernod or Sambuca liqueur
• 1 medium garlic clove, thinly sliced
• Ingredients for the lemon-tarragon aioli:
• freshly squeezed lemon juice of one lemon, at room temperature
• pinch of saffron threads
• 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
• 2 teaspoons chopped garlic (2 cloves)
• kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup good olive oil
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1/2 tablespoon warm water

Instructions

1

Prepare the artichokes: Trim the artichoke stems so they sit upright on a cutting board. Remove and discard the top inch of each artichoke with a large knife and trim off the top of each spiny leaf with scissors.

2

As you cut each artichoke, rub the cut edges with half a lemon to keep them from browning.

3

Place the artichokes stem-end down in a stockpot that's large enough to hold them side by side without crowding. Add the wine, olive oil, Pernod, garlic and enough water so the artichokes are floating.

4

Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender when pierced through the base with a sharp knife.

5

Remove the artichokes, drain and allow to sit at room temperature until ready to serve.

6

Serve one artichoke per person warm, at room temperature, with the lemon and tarragon aioli on the side for dipping. If the aioli is too thick, you can whisk in a tablespoon of warm water to thin it.

7

Make the lemon and tarragon aioli: Combine lemon juice and saffron in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Add the egg yolk, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and process for 10 seconds.

8

Combine the olive and canola oils in a measuring cup and, with the machine running, very slowly pour them down the feed tube, until it forms a thick emulsion.

9

Add the tarragon, lemon zest, and warm water and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

Notes

Adapted from Cooking for Jeffrey by Ina Garten