Chicken and Onion “Pies” with Moroccan Flavors | Claudia Roden

I took a cooking lesson with a young Moroccan woman Laila at her home in the medina in Fez. (Laila works as a cook in a restaurant — not a trained chef nor a recipes writer.) The medina is truly the highlight and heartbeat of this ancient city with thousands of twisting, narrow streets of food, spice, handicraft markets and shops selling almost everything imaginable.

We shopped for the ingredients on the way to her place. Behind the thick wall of a traditional riad is Laila’s husband family home for seven generations. Squeezed into her kitchen, not knowing what to expect. It’s small and modest, however, an oasis and a hidden gem away from the hustle bustle outside. The kitchen is tucked away at the corner in the rectangular courtyard of sweet-smelling orange and other fruit trees, anchored by the fountain in the center. This is where my discovery of Moroccan cooking and flavors began.

We made two dishes: a chicken tagine and quick-cooked lamb stew with zucchini. I helped with chopping up the onions and garlic. Cut the zucchini in halves. Then mixed up the spices for the meats. Meanwhile, Laila pretty much did the rest. I watched and peppered her with questions.

I am not unfamiliar with tagines; there are several Moroccan write-ups on this blog. I’m intrigued by the sweet and savory note of meat or vegetable stews, often combining fruits and other aromatics. Furthermore, it brings the unreal and seductive flavors and aromas of Morocco front and center. I’m hooked. That motivates me to delve deeper into the Moroccan cuisine and visit the country.

Is the clay tagine pot necessary?

I am a fan of Dutch ovens (like the Le Creuset) and own a few in different shapes and sizes. Can’t help to seriously question myself: do you really need to get a tagine, the two-part clay vessel with the conical top, to cook Moroccan dishes? Many experts say yes. But I beg to differ, leaning toward a more nuanced approach.

To produce the succulent and the depth of flavor, the tagines do several things. 1) The steaming, 2) recycling of moisture inside the pot, and 3) caramelization on the bottom of the pot, thereby intensifying the flavor of the meat (or vegetables) and the sauce. It’s the ultimate and efficient one-pot cooking method.

For the most part, a 10 to 12-inch cast iron skillets do most of the heavy lifting in my kitchen. A wide and tall (not shallow) cast iron pans can easily replace the base of the tagines and fulfill the tasks of steaming and searing. Both on the stovetops or in the oven. No doubt about that.

However, the story is different for the lid. It’s much harder to replicate the greater volume of moist air circulating under the conical top of the tagines as compared with Dutch ovens under cover with flat lids. The ongoing and the recycling of steam, critically important to cooking, tenderizing and flavoring the meat and vegetables, is unique. I can’t think of other pots doing the same. That clearly works in favor of the clay tagines.

The advantage of cooking with the tagine pot, given the shape and structure of the conical lid, is quite compelling. If I can find the tagines (at the right price) or clay conical tops to work in conjunction with the cast iron bases I own, I’ll be a happy camper. For the time being, I’ll improvise with the equipments I have on hand while focusing on perfecting the cooking techniques.

What is the minimum essential spices necessary for Moroccan cooking?

Cooking along with Laila and judging from the favorable results of the dishes we made, I’m surprised by what I’ve found. There are six small tins of the frequently-used spices next to her stove. By the way, these are the only spices we used for the marinade as well as for our cooking. The six spices are: black pepper, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, paprika and turmeric. That’s it. I bet most of us have these essential Morocco spices in our kitchen.

How slow is slow-cooking — in the Moroccan way?

The actual hands-on cooking time with Laila lasted about one hour. She used a tagine pot for the chicken and a pressured cooker for the lamb. That may defy the very definition of slow cooking. Keep in mind that Laila is a busy Millennial doing her best to deftly balance work, child care and the family home. Learning to cook from her mom and grandmother, I doubt that the pressure cooker was a part of that.

All I can say is: I saw the fire turned up high, at the right moment, and the whiff of food burning in the kitchen. (To some extent, you’re supposed to do that in order to get the desired caramelization.) You do what you can; we don’t have a whole day. That’s real life! In the end, I can’t argue with the great speed she executed slow-cooking when she succeeded in serving up amazing flavors.

I am a firm believer that the passage of time remains an indisputable ingredient in good cooking and baking.

Europeans have clocks; Moroccans have time.

~ unknown source

My final take:

Moroccan dishes with great refinement is more simple and quicker to do than I’ve thought. Use the freshest ingredients you can get and a few essential spices. Follow the methods and instincts passed on from Moroccan moms and grandmothers. In some cases, I’ve found great recipes collected by renowned culinary experts who offer helpful advice and modifications for home-cooks in the US. The recipe below is what I use as the main dish for a ladies luncheon. The dish is spiced up with mild Moroccan flavors of cinnamon and ginger; I don’t want to go overboard for the American palate.

The same rule applies: Keep tasting the food to ensure the right balance for saltiness, sweetness and heat. Finally, allow time to work its magic and let the flavors meld in unison.

The luncheon went well. My friend asked for the recipe. So here it is.

Print Recipe

Chicken and Onion Pies with Moroccan Flavors

By Claudia Roden – Serves: 4

This recipe is quick take on the Moroccan festive jewel-in-the-crown b'stilla, a pigeon pie with chicken encased in layers of paper-thin warka (pancakes) or more often with phyllo pastry. A light rectangle of puff pastry sits in for the crust. It's both sumptuous and easy.

Ingredients

• ½ boiled lemon (see directions below), chopped (optional), I substituted with 1/4 preserved lemon
• 14 oz/ 400 g all-butter puff pastry sheet
• 1 egg yolk
• 2 large onions, halved and thickly sliced
• 4 tbsp olive or sunflower oil
• ¾ tsp ground ginger
• 1½ tsp, ground cinnamon, plus extra for sprinkling
• 1/3 cup/ 50 g blanched almonds, coarsely chopped
• 6 chicken thigh fillets, boneless, skinless, cut into bite-sized pieces
• salt and black pepper
• 1-2 tbsp lemon juice
• grated zest of ½ orange
• confectioners' sugar, for dusting
• 1 bunch cilantro, chopped

Instructions

1

To make the boiled lemon, put whole unwaxed lemons in a pan with water to cover. Put a smaller lid on top to keep them down as they float, and boil for about 30 minutes or until they are very soft when you press them. If you don’t use them right away, drain them and leave to cool. Pack them whole, pressing them into a jar, and cover with olive or sunflower oil. They will last a few weeks in the fridge. You can use them cut into pieces or blended to a paste.

2

Preheat the oven to 400°F/ 160°C fan. Take the pastry out of the fridge about 20 minutes before you want to use it.

3

BAKE THE PASTRY: Unroll the pastry on a silicone mat, or parchment paper, or to a lightly oiled baking sheet. Cut it into 8 rectangles. Brush the tops with the egg yolk mixed with a drop of water. Bake for about 20-25 minutes or until the pastry has puffed up and is golden brown. (To avoid a softer bottom, preheat the baking sheet or pizza stone in the oven, before placing the pastry on top when baking)

4

COOK THE ONIONS: Put the onions in a wide frying pan with the oil. Put the lid on and cook over low heat, stirring often, for about 10 minutes until they are very soft.

5

ADD SPICES, ALMONDS AND CHICKEN: Stir in the ginger and cinnamon, then add the almonds and the chicken pieces, and season with salt and pepper. Cook uncovered for 7-8 minutes, stirring and turning the chicken until it is tender and lightly browned.

6

STIR IN LEMON JUICE, ORANGE ZEST, BOILED LEMON AND WATER: Add the lemon juice and orange zest, the boiled lemon, if using, and 3-4 tablespoons of water, and continue to cook for 5 minutes. (Too acidic, add some sugar. Adjust for seasoning: add salt and pepper.)

7

SERVE: Lightly cover the pastry rectangles with a dusting of icing sugar, and make a small lattice pattern with ground cinnamon on top.

8

Sprinkle cilantro over the chicken mixture and serve hot. Place two puff pastry rectangles on the side of each plate.

Notes

Adapted from Claudia Roden's Miditerranean: Treasured Recipes from a Lifetime of Travel https://www.theguardian.com/food/2022/sep/26/claudia-roden-recipe-for-chicken-and-onion-pies-with-moroccan-flavours