French Cheesecake (Torteau Fromager) | David Lebovitz

“What’s that burnt thing?” Without David’s warning (in his book My Paris Kitchen) that the top crust of the cheesecake looks almost burnt, I’d not have taken it that far. I’m glad I did. Started off with a very hot oven at 450°F. Then turned the temperature down to 400°F to get the cheese custard cooked inside. That has worked wonder for this darkened French Cheesecake.

What makes it French other than the blackened top? David tells us that this tourteau fromager recipe comes from Poitou-Charentes, the number one region in France for the production of goats cheese. Goats are said to have been brought by the Moors in the 8th century. The Moors left and the goats stayed.

Under the blackened crust, the cheesecake looks dense with a distinct, delicate, goat cheese flavor, yet light and spongy as you bite into it. Sounds good, tastes luscious, somehow it looks weird… Goat cheese as an ingredient is very different from most cheesecake recipes. They generally use cream cheese or farmer’s cheese, which, by and large, are unripened cheese. No wonder this French cheesecake is so cheese forward. If you like goat cheese, as I do, this cake is for you.

I also like the short-crust pastry recipe. It is easy to make, well behaved and no tearing as you roll it out. You can conveniently make the crust in the stand mixer. Mix together 210 grams all-purpose flour, 2 teaspoons of sugar, pinch of salt and 115 grams of cold butter cubes until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add one egg and 2 tablespoons of ice water. Rest the dough in the fridge. Roll it out when you are ready to bake. No par-baking is necessary. No struggling or fighting with the dough, as I do, more often than not.

To make the cheese custard: mix together fresh goat cheese (285 grams) and eggs, separated, (five eggs or 275 grams) in about equal measures, 2 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraîche, sugar (250 grams), one teaspoon vanilla extract, one teaspoon Cognac and all-purpose flour (60 grams). The key is to whip the egg-whites to soft peaks and then fold into the batter. That’s the secret to achieve the lightened texture of the cheesecake.

I made half a recipe in a 5-inch springform pan, which takes just as much work. In retrospect, I should have made the full recipe. It’s so cheesy delicious! I’ll try to remember to look for goat’s cheese camembert from Poitou-Charentes—next time.

Too see what our friends at Cook-the-book-Fridays make of the French cheesecake, please visit here.

Right out of the oven with a blackened top

Delicate goat cheese flavor with a spongy texture