Greek Fava and the Mediterranean Diet

Spending part of May in Greece and tasting a variety of the Greek classics drive home the notion of eating locally, seasonally and farm-to-table. Among all the dishes I’ve eaten, none other than the Greek fava bean makes the deepest impression. The reason is simple. There were very few meals we had in Greece without fava bean in one form or another. It could be a standalone appetizer or as a base for the main protein course — it’s most likely a spread.

Fresh or dried fava beans? My experience with fava beans in the US generally pertains to the fresh beans. You can find fresh fava beans in the farmers market during the summer months, very much like the seasonal runner beans. This is what you do. Break apart the giant bean pods to reveal the individual beans inside. They are just like a larger version of green peas, with a green tone through and through. Occasionally, you may find frozen fava bean in the freezer section at Whole Foods.

With that preconception about fava beans, I expect the fava bean spread to take on the green color. I questioned what it really was when the fava bean spread showed up on our table in beige at a Michelin star restaurant Cookoovaya in Athens. I did not get a satisfactory answer! Perhaps, I did not ask the right question. For the rest of the journey in Greece, fava bean spread continued to appear in beige.

The fact is that fresh fava beans turn beige as they dry. The case in point is the bag of dried and shelled fava bean I often get from Bob’s Red Mill. Except, there is a twist. These fava beans are widely used in soups and dips and the traditional Egyptian dish ful medames — but not so in Greece.

Greek fava is a bit of a misnomer because it is made from yellow split peas, not fava beans. I finally got to the bottom of the “Greek fava” when I got to Santorini. Here on the island of Santorini, I tasted the best Greek fava as compared to the many I’ve tasted previously. Simply, the reason is about the soil, or more specifically, the volcanic terroir on the island, where these beans are cultivated.

This discovery and revelation came during an extended conversation with the chef at Feggera in Santorini. He runs a cooking school in his restaurant and one of the recipes he teaches is the Greek fava. If I’d had the time, I’d have taken a cooking class with him. Lucky for me, he generously told me about his fava beans recipe. (See the handwritten note below.) I can’t be happier that evening when I walked away with the recipe, as well as several bags of dried fava (yellow split peas) and olives from Santorini.

The Greek fava recipe from Feggera is a simple dip, using a handful of ingredients: fava beans, carrot, onion, bay leaves and olive oil. The fava is both satisfying and delicious accompanied by bread and olives. The plating is stunning and visually appealing. In addition, a touch of turmeric imparts a vibrant yellow tone to the beans. The chef shaped the fava with a ring mold and sprinkled it with a chock full of pickled toppings.

According to his cooking method, it takes considerable amount of time to cook the beans to perfection. What stands out to me is the same mesmerizing motion, not unlike stirring a pot of risotto, until the beans are cooked. It takes patience! In the end, it’s well worth the effort to get it just right. From time to time, I like to remind myself the benefit of slowing down the rhythm and pace of our daily life. What’s the hurry?

Let’s head to another Greek island.

The island of Ikaria, part of the famous Blue Zones, has been called the “Island Where People Forget to Die.” It has the highest concentration of people to live over 100 years of age in the world. No surprise. The Feggera recipe is almost identitical to the Greek fava recipe from the books “Ikaria: Food and Life in the Blue Zone,” or “My Ikaria: How the People From a Small Mediterranean Island Inspired Me to Live a Happier, Healthier and Longer Life.” Just to name a few.

More broadly, I believe the recipes and discussions from these cookbook authors give meaning and context to what we know about the Mediterranean diet.

There are so many beautiful Greek islands to recount. Among my favorites are: Naxos, Delos, Paros and Crete. Best of all, the trip to Greece reinforces the healthful habits of the Mediterranean diet which emphasizes plant-based, whole grains, olive oil, fish, and plenty of fresh fruits and nuts.

By and large, the Greek fava is a familiar staple. I ate a lot on this trip that far exceeded my usual food intake. But I felt good about what, the freshness and the quality of the food, and how we ate — around a long communal table punctuated with conversations and laughter. This is a part of experience in Greece that will always stay with me!

Print Recipe

Greek Fava

By The Washington Post – Serves: 4

The recipe from Feggera, a restaurant in Santorini, is the inspiration behind the dish. It is a simple dish with only a handful of ingredients. Greek fava is both satisfying and delicious, accompanied by crusty bread and olives. Take liberty with the toppings. Pickled Peruvian pearls and olives and parsley add texture and acidity to the beans.

Ingredients

• 1 cup (7 1/2 ounces) yellow split peas, preferably Greek
• 2 cups water
• 1 medium yellow onion (8 ounces), roughly chopped
• 1 small carrot, roughly chopped (optional)
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric (optional)
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
• 1 bay leaf
• Fine sea salt
• Capers, thinly sliced red onion, lemon wedges and crusty sliced bread, for serving

Instructions

1

In a colander or strainer, rinse the split peas, then transfer to a small, heavy-bottomed pot. Add the water, set over high heat and bring to a boil. Skim the white scum that rises to the top and, once at a boil, reduce the heat so the water is at a simmer.

2

Add the onion, carrot and turmeric (optional), 1/2 cup of the olive oil and the bay leaf. Lightly season with salt, cover and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the peas have mostly broken down, about 30 minutes for Greek yellow split peas and up to 1 hour and 15 minutes for everyday yellow split peas (start checking around 40-minute mark) The mixture should be the consistency of cake batter, with some peas holding their shape.

3

Remove and discard the bay leaf. Taste the peas and season with more salt, if desired, then transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and process until the mixture has the texture of smooth hummus. (You can also use an immersion blender, but the texture won’t be as smooth.)

4

Transfer to individual shallow bowls and top with capers, sliced red onion and lemon wedges, for squeezing over. Drizzle with more olive oil and serve, with crusty bread.

Notes

https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/greek-fava/ and adapted from the Feggera recipe