Moussaka with Lamb, Eggplant and Dried Mint

Moussaka is a popular Greek dish layering a combination of lamb, eggplant, cheese and delicately seasoned with cinnamon and allspice. It is a good choice for a party, very much like a lasagna — but without the pasta. In fact, moussaka and lasagna both share a meat sauce, and a cheese topping. Among the vegetables for filling, eggplant is a popular choice.

I find this recipe in The Gourmet Cookbook edited by Ruth Reichl. I like the simplicity of it using mostly everyday pantry staples, besides the meat and vegetable. They are: the onion, garlic, ground cinnamon, ground allspice, butter, flour, milk, feta and Parmesan cheese. Also present is the dried mint, which is not I’d have expected.

After reading the article in Epicurious: Why dried mint is the essential herb your kitchen is missing, I have a newfound appreciation for dried mint. “It adds a depth and earthiness to meats, cheeses, sauces, and soups that you simply don’t get with fresh mint.” The author also confirms through her travels in Greece, Cyrus and Turkey where she has found very few herbs as versatile and brilliant as the dried mint.

The dried mint brings a lightness to the rich and heavy meat sauce, with a touch of brightness. In Cyprus, dried mint is commonly used to season the island’s most famous culinary export, the Halloumi. Furthermore, it’s a welcome addition to tzatziki or in a hot creamy soup, and never fails to cool or delight.

Don’t think fresh mint and dried mint have the same effect in a dish. How often do we use smattering of fresh herbs: parsley, thyme or basil to add fragrance and enliven a dish? Fresh herbs are great. On the other hand, dried mint is incorporated, here in the meat sauce of the moussaka, during the cooking process. Hence, its impact is more developed and enduring than that of fresh mint. Going forward, I can’t imagine not having dried mint as part of the meat sauce.

The lamb sauce takes up most of the active time in making the moussaka. Simmering takes considerable time and patience. But there are very few methods capable of imparting flavor other than engaging the ingredient of time.

It won’t be a moussaka without the cheese topping which is built with béchamel — the mother sauce in French cooking. (I don’t mind the time spent in making this essential sauce.) Béchamel should get its own chapter, in which I’d defer to another time. Finally, it’s noteworthy that the combination of crumbled feta and grated Parmigiano Reggiano on the béchamel is a crowning delight for this hearty tasty moussaka!

Print Recipe

Moussaka

Serves: 6

Cooking Time: 1 3/4 hours

Ingredients

• FOR LAMB AND EGGPLANT:
• 1 large tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/4 pounds ground lamb
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 3 (14-ounce) cans Italian plum tomatoes, drained
• (1 1/2 cups juice reserved) and chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried mint
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 1/2 pounds (maybe more) medium eggplants, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices
• FOR THE BÉCHAMEL:
• 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups whole milk
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 pound feta, crumbled (scant 1 cup)
• 1 large egg and 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Instructions

1

MAKE THE LAMB SAUCE: Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat. Add onion and cook, stirring until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add lamb, increase heat to moderate, and cook, stirring and breaking up lumps, until lamb is no longer pink, about 4 minutes. Stir in cinnamon and allspice. Add tomatoes, with reserved juice, dried mint, and salt and pepper to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook at a brisk simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes.

2

BROIL THE EGGPLANT: Preheat the broiler. Oil two baking sheets. Arrange eggplant slices in one layer on baking sheets, then slightly brush with 3 tablespoons oil. Broil about 4 inches from heat until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn eggplant slices over, lightly brush with remaining 3 tablespoons oil, and broil until golden brown and tender, 3 to 5 minutes more. Remove from broiler and reduce oven temperature to 400°F.

3

ASSEMBLE THE MOUSSAKA: Oil 13 x 9-inch baking dish (I used a smaller dish). Arrange half of eggplant slices, slightly overlapping, in dish. Spread lamb mixture evenly over eggplant and cover with remaining eggplant slices, slightly overlapping.

4

MAKE THE BÉCHAMEL TOPPING: Melt butter in a 2 1/2 to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat. Add flour and cook, whisking, for 3 minutes to make a roux. Add milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking, for 3 minutes. Add feta and cook over low heat, whisking, until cheese is melted; do not let boil. Season sauce with pepper to taste and let cool, covered, for 5 minutes.

5

Add beaten egg mixture to sauce in a slow stream, whisking. Pour sauce evenly over eggplant and lamb mixture and sprinkle with Parmesan.

6

BAKE THE MOUSSAKA: Bake the moussaka in middle of oven until golden and bubbling, 30-35 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

7

The moussaka, without the topping, can be assembled up to 1 day ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then refrigerate, covered. Bring to room temperature, about 1 hour, before topping with sauce and cheese and baking.

Notes

The recipe is adapted from "The Gourmet Cookbook" edited by Ruth Reichl.