A lemon and berry stripe cake is an answer to this timely question. What do I miss most during this Covid season? Not so much the restaurants or the instagram-worthy vacation scenes. But the simple pleasure of having a party with a roomful of friends and family at home. I miss the laughters, conversations, hugs and kisses. In other words, the normalcy of mundane everyday life.
However, not having a party does not stop me from making a fancy cake worthy of celebrating birthdays or other important milestones. It helps to have my daughter to collaborate in making and decorating the cake. It’s so much fun, and totally unexpected, to work on a cake project with family members while sheltering in place. In the end, you have a cake and eat it too.
There are three different components in making the cake: the sponge cake, the berry purée and the buttercream. When you have two people sharing the work, it goes fast. Since we use frozen mixed berries (a bag from Costco), there is not much else you need. Besides the basic cake ingredients (flour, sugar, eggs and butter), the only extras are: lemon, syrup and vanilla extract. Therefore, the idea of making a fancy cake like this is more approachable than we’ve thought.
Meanwhile, the process of making the lemon and berry cake is relatively straightforward. The only tricky part, or rather the less intuitive part, is how to turn the sponge sheet cake into a tall cake — with vertical stripes. Think roulade and then turn it on its flat side as the base of the cake. (See the short video for the unusual technique.) Voila, you feel like a cake pro!
Most of my desserts I often make are rudimentary rather than fancy. Nonetheless, making a fancy cake for a special occasion is fun and a temporary distraction from the stress in a pandemic. We love the color and taste of the stripe cake. Most of all, we’ve created something beautiful and standing tall in the midst of chaos around.
Lemon & Berry (or Blackcurrant) Stripe Cake
Ingredients
- CAKE:
- 8 large eggs, whites and yolks separated
- 2/3 cup plus 3½ tablespoons /140g granulated sugar, plus 1 1/2 tsp
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 3/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (from 1 small lemon)
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon /80g all-purpose flour
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- Powdered sugar, for dusting
- BLACKCURRANT (or BERRY) PURÉE:
- 12 ounces blackcurrants, or berry, fresh or frozen and defrosted, divided
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- BLACK CURRANT (or BERRY) BUTTERCREAM:
- 1/4 cup/85g light corn syrup (I use maple syrup)
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon /120g granulated sugar
- 1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and reserved
- 4 large egg yolks
- 1¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon/ 300g unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes, softened
- 1/2 cup /100g blackcurrant (or mixed berry) pureé (recipe above)
Instructions
FOR THE SPONGE CAKE: Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Line a shallow 12- by 15-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
CREAMING & FOLDING: Place the egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Add the 2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons/140g granulated sugar and the lemon juice and beat on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until pale and thick. Transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl and sift the flour and salt directly over the egg mixture in two batches, folding through the mixture with a rubber spatula after each addition. Sprinkle the lemon zest on top and set aside.
WHISKING TO FIRM PEAKS: Place the egg whites in a clean bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Whisk on medium-high speed until soft peaks form, then slowly pour in the 1½ tablespoons granulated sugar. Continue to whisk until firm peaks form, then gently fold a third of the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until incorporated. Finally, fold in the remaining egg whites and the flour mixture until combined, and then scrape the mixture into the lined baking sheet. Even the surface out with a small spatula and bake for 15 minutes, or until light golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
MAKING LONG STRIPS: Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool in the pan for 5 minutes before dusting the top lightly with powdered sugar. Place a clean kitchen towel on top of the sponge cake and then flip it over so that it is now lying on top of the kitchen towel. Carefully peel away the paper and trim the very edges of the sponge. Be careful not to cut away too much, you really just want to straighten out the edges. Starting at the shorter edge of the cake, carefully roll it up (along with the kitchen towel). This is to "train" the cake, ready for rolling up again later. After about 20 minutes, or when no longer warm, unroll the cake. With the short end facing you, measure and cut three equal strips parallel to the long edge, each about 4 inches wide. (If you have a pizza cutter, this is a really easy way to cut the strips.) Cover with a clean kitchen towel and set aside.
MAKING A COILED BARREL: Spread each of the strips of sponge with about 3 ounces of the buttercream (See below); this should leave about 10½ ounces to frost the top and sides of the cake. Take one strip of sponge and, starting with the short end, roll it up. Once this strip is rolled, position the exposed end at the beginning of the next strip and keep rolling. Again, once this is rolled — the cylinder will be getting wider now — position the exposed end at the beginning of the last strip and continue to roll. You now have a rolled cylindrical cake! (Imagine, for a moment, if you lined up the three strips end to end to create one very long strip. Then imagine rolling that very long strip up, from one end to the other. You should end up with a coiled barrel shape.) Turn the cylinder onto the serving plate so that it is standing on one of its flat ends. (See the video above.)
Spread the remaining buttercream all over the top and sides of the cake, smoothing with a spatula to create an even surface. Dribble the remaining 1/4 cup blackcurrant purée (see below) on top of the cake and top this with the remaining blackcurrants. Set aside for 1 hour at room temperature (or in the fridge if it is a very warm day) before serving.
FOR THE MIXED BERRY PURÉE: Place 10½ ounces of the black currants (or berries) and granulated sugar in a medium saucepan and place over medium-low heat. Warm through for 4-5 minutes, until the blackcurrants (or berries) have softened and the sugar has dissolved.
Transfer to a food processor and process to form a purée. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl to catch the purée; you only need 2/3 cup, so save any extra in the fridge for another use.
FOR THE MIXED BERRY BUTTERCREAM:
MAKING SYRUP: Place the corn syrup, granulated sugar and vanilla seeds in a medium saucepan. Place over low heat and stir until all the sugar dissolves; this is your sugar syrup.
BEATING EGG YOLKS: While the syrup is cooking, place the egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Beat on medium-high speed until thick and pale yellow in color. Leave the machine on while you check the sugar syrup; when all the sugar has melted, stir again, increase the heat to medium and simmer until bubbles begin to appear. Swirl the pan gently and continue to simmer until there are large bubbles all over the surface of the syrup.
ADDING BUTTER: Remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour the hot syrup in a slow, steady stream down the edge of the mixing bowl into the beating yolks. When all the syrup has been added, increase the mixer speed to high and continue to beat the mixture for about 10 minutes, until the outside of the bowl is no longer warm. Gradually add the butter, one cube at a time, allowing it to be incorporated into the mixture before adding the next. When all the butter has been added, scrape down the bowl and continue to beat for another minute, until the buttercream is very smooth and light.
ADDING PURÉE: Add a scant 1/2 cup of the blackcurrant purée and beat on medium speed until fully incorporated.
Notes
Adapted from "Sweet" by Ottolenghi and Goh
9 Comments
Kim Tracy
August 23, 2020 at 7:42 pmWow, this cake is incredibly stunning! I’ve never seen a cake with the vertical strips like this. Also, such an absolutely gorgeous color. It’s a thing of beauty and sure to put a smile on everyone’s face.
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August 24, 2020 at 12:52 pm[…] — for eating and sharing. My family gobbles up the bread with a berry purée (leftover from the stripe cake) in no […]
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February 16, 2021 at 7:44 pm[…] too much, we made something epic that neither one of us had done individually, like this vertical layer cake. There are others. Together we produced something of exceptional beauty and taste (as well as […]
steph (whisk/spoon)
March 12, 2021 at 8:34 pmthis is so beautiful! i’ve admired this cake in the book, but i always thought it seemed too fussy. it really looks very special!
Shirley@EverOpenSauce
March 13, 2021 at 10:49 amThat’s what I thought too. It ended up being a lovely cake and a feel-good project.
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November 16, 2021 at 5:26 pm[…] there are plenty of leftover butter cream, berry compote and purée in the fridge at my disposal. First, they need to be used up after […]
Diane Zwang
April 13, 2024 at 11:20 amA picture of this cake turned up on your blogroll today and I was blown away, such a beautiful cake. We are going to London in a few weeks and my one wish was to go to a Ottolenghi restaurant. I am looking forward to it.
Shirley @ Everopensauce
April 13, 2024 at 2:37 pmI was in London in December and made my way to one of Ottolenghi restaurants. Now you mention it, I want to go back and linger there longer. Have a great trip, Diane!
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June 11, 2024 at 10:32 am[…] Most of all, my mini jelly roll cakes with vertical stripes are inspired by Ottolenghi’s lemon and berry stripe cake from his cookbook Sweet. I didn’t start with a plan, I just go […]