Amid the season of storms, floods and wildfires, I hope it’s not too late to organize our life for planet resiliency. The first order of business in the kitchen is to tackle food waste. This Ottolenghi recipe from The New York Times uses the whole lemon — juice and zest and peel. The lemon-labneh possets need only four ingredients: lemon, sugar, cream and labneh. The peel of the lemon turns into powder. For the meringue, the ingredient list is short, including sugar, egg whites and cream of tartar. It’s as economical as it gets using every part of the fruit.
Lemon possets need only three magic ingredients: sugar, lemon juice and heavy cream. (See the chemistry behind the posset in this link.) It’s the most elemental and classic British pudding that every dessert person or pastry chef should have in her back pocket, ready to deploy anywhere. Here, labneh is showcased as to how we can use up excess yogurt which has hung around for too long. Drain away the whey. Roll into balls and cover them in olive oil. Labneh will keep in the fridge for weeks.
Long strips of lemon peel are baked for 12 to 15 minutes at 450°F until they are almost burnt. Then finely grind them into dust in the Vitamix. That’s how you get the burnt lemon powder (or dust).
The lemon powder reminds me of the lemon flakes from France which I got as a gift. When the peels are dehydrated at low temperature, then pass them through a food processor, they’d turn into flakes. Aha, I can make the lemon flakes in my own kitchen. What a revelation!
It boggles my mind how you can create a flavorful, creamy dessert with an everyday whole lemon, add crunch and throw in the lemon dust for effect. For all I know, I want to find more recipes like this that transforms, amazes and seduces, ecological advantage notwithstanding. They are hard to find!
As the saying doesn’t quite go: “When life gives you lemons, make lemonade (and limoncello and burnt lemon powder, of course, the most citrusy of lemon possets.)” ~ Yotam Ottolenghi
Lemon-Labneh Possets with Meringue and Burnt Lemon Powder
Ingredients
- FOR THE LABNEH (OPTIONAL):
- 1 pound/450 grams Greek yogurt
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- FOR THE POSSET:
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest (from 1 to 2 lemons)
- ¾ cup plus 2 teaspoons/200 grams lemon juice (from about 4 to 5 lemons)
- 1 ¼ cups/250 grams granulated sugar
- 2 ¾ cups/650 grams heavy cream (double cream)
- 7 ounces/200 grams labneh (homemade or store-bought)
- FOR THE MERINGUE:
- ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon/115 grams granulated sugar
- 2 egg whites (65 grams), from 2 large eggs
- ⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
- FOR THE BURNT LEMON POWDER:
- 2 unwaxed (or well-scrubbed) lemons
Instructions
Make the labneh: Add yogurt and salt to a bowl and mix well to combine. Line a medium sieve with a piece of cheesecloth or a clean tea towel with plenty of overhang. Add yogurt, and pull the overhang up and over the yogurt to encase it. Set the sieve over a bowl and place a weight on top. (A couple of cans — or tins — will do.) Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. When ready, discard the liquid collected and store the labneh in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. (You should have about 9 ounces/250 grams of labneh.) If using store-bought labneh, skip this step.
Measure out a scant 1/2 cup (about 7 ounces/200 grams) of labneh for the possets, and reserve the rest for breakfast or to spread onto toast.
Prepare the possets: Combine lemon zest, juice and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Set aside once the sugar has dissolved. In a separate medium saucepan, heat heavy cream (double cream) over medium until it just gently starts to bubble, 7 to 10 minutes. Off the heat, pour all the cream into the lemon mixture and whisk until combined, then whisk in labneh until smooth. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a jug with a spout. Divide mixture across 8 glasses. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight if you’re getting ahead.
Prepare the meringue: Heat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit/180 degrees Celsius. Spread sugar onto a baking sheet (baking tray) and heat for 10 minutes, until very hot but not melted at all. A couple of minutes before it’s ready, add egg whites and cream of tartar to a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or alternatively, use an electric hand mixer), and beat on medium until frothy, about 1 minute. Remove sugar from oven and turn down the temperature to 250 degrees Fahrenheit/120 degrees Celsius. Turn mixer speed to low and slowly stream in the warm sugar until it’s all incorporated. Turn the speed back up to high, and beat until glossy and stiff peaks form, another 5 to 6 minutes. Line a large (roughly 16-by-12-inch/40-by-30-centimeter) baking sheet (baking tray) with parchment paper and use a spatula to thinly spread the mixture onto the lined tray, so it’s about 14 by 10 inches/35 by 25 centimeters. Bake for 80 to 90 minutes, until completely dried out. Set aside to cool, about 30 minutes, then roughly break apart into random shards.
Prepare the burnt lemon powder: Turn oven up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit/240 degrees Celsius. Use a small, sharp knife to cut the peel off the lemons in long strips. (Don’t worry if you get some of the pith.) You want about 1 ounce/30 grams in total. Transfer strips to a small, parchment-lined baking sheet (baking tray). Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until completely dry and almost burned. (They’ll shrivel significantly.) Transfer to a pestle and mortar to finely grind, then pass through a sieve, to catch any large pieces. (Discard these.) You should be left with about 1 1/2 teaspoons.
Segment the lemons: Using the small, sharp knife, trim off any excess peel, then cut between the membranes to release the segments. Roughly chop each segment into 2 to 3 pieces. (Use them all if you like things a little sharp, or keep any extra in the fridge for a vinaigrette or salsa verde.) I skipped this step. (There is enough acidity for me.)
To serve, top possets with lemon segments, a sprinkling of burnt lemon powder and a few meringue shards, serving any extra meringue to dip alongside.
Notes
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1022475-lemon-labneh-possets-with-meringue-and-burnt-lemon-powder
Your comments are important to me. Be the first to comment by clicking the icon below on the right.
7 Comments
Mary Hirsch
September 7, 2021 at 9:12 pmYou are amazing. ( And, so is Ottolenghi ). I have never seen this recipe or one like it before. Will probably take a shortcut or two but will definitely try this. Just love meeting you through Cook the Book Friday’s and following your blog.
Shirley@EverOpenSauce
September 8, 2021 at 12:05 pmMary, you are equally amazing with your energy, love of nature, and positive attitude. I know I can always count on you for good Karma. Thanks so much for your kind words.
Kim Tracy
September 12, 2021 at 4:23 pmWow, I love to see recipes like this come together with such humble ingredients. I must say though, this one really kicks it up a step or two. I really enjoyed reading about the lemon dust (very intriguing)! Looks absolutely gorgeous!
Pumpkin, Saffron & Orange Soup with Caramelised Pumpkin Seeds - Ever Open Sauce
October 18, 2021 at 2:34 am[…] in my head towards the whole-fruit approach. Going forward, pumpkin seeds will join the likes of lemon peels to become edibles and flavor enhancers. Since the seeds from a pumpkin hardly cost anything, the […]
Eton Mess | Everyday Dorie - Ever Open Sauce
April 22, 2022 at 9:36 am[…] ghosts for Halloween. My favorite are meringue shards which look amazing atop of a tall glass of lemon posset. All share the essential element of meringue — sweetness and the delicate […]
Rainbow Chard with Tomatoes and Green Olives | Ottolenghi's Flavor - Ever Open Sauce
July 5, 2022 at 10:43 pm[…] Lemon strips for acidity — We generally use lemon zest and juice. There is more! The lemon strips, from shaving the peel, is yet another use to showcase the versatility of lemon. In this recipe, the subtle acidity of lemon is brought out in the hot olive oil. To finish the dish, drizzle fresh lemon juice on the rainbow chard for brightness. No part of the lemon is wasted. […]
Quiona Salad with Dried Persian Lime | Plenty by Ottolenghi - Ever Open Sauce
September 17, 2023 at 3:56 pm[…] you don’t have access to Persian lime, try this approach that I’ve learned in another Ottolenghi’s recipe. He put freshly-cut and often-discarded lemon peels in the oven to dry. In fact, he’s […]