dessert/ Dorie Greenspan/ featured/ foundation recipe/ French/ Gluten free/ Nut

Parisian Macarons | Dorie Greenspan

Smooth, uncracked top, craggy ring on the bottom, are good signs.

Parisian macarons were the first cookie I learnt to bake. I mean, before then, I’ve not baked much of anything. It sounds so incredulous that I can hardly wrap my arms around it, let alone others.

This was what happened. It was spring break of 2011 when my daughter and I took our first ever baking lesson, in Paris. We baked Earl Gray chocolate macarons, among others. They were amazing; we’re hooked. Unfortunately, we’re not able to repeat that at home. My initial discovery was we don’t get the same kind of unpasteurized egg whites (in cartons) in the US as in France. Furthermore, it took me months to realize the key to success is the quality of egg whites used for macarons.

Fast forward a decade later, I bake macarons from time to time. Some fairly good ones too, although inconsistently. It seems like every time I bake macarons, another layer of complexity reviews itself, much like peeling an onion. Each bake informs new area I need to work on.

Lately, my nemesis has been the Italian meringue. Specifically, the method involves getting the hot sugar syrup to the right temperature, and mixing the molten sugar with the fragile egg whites. Then finally, bring the meringue cookie batter together with the right consistency for piping. That’s a lot to unpack there!

I consider Dorie’s Parisian macarons recipe as another practice bake to get better at the game. The Italian meringue challenge is on. I like that Dorie gives us sufficient guidance and hand holding. In the end, I feel good about her process and the cookies.

There are feet on the bottom!

The following are Dorie’s rules. I’d read her words carefully every time as these are the important ones. I fill in with comments and notes of my own.

  • A word on egg whites: Some pros leave their egg whites at room temperature for a few days before using them—you get a better meringue with old (more liquidy) whites. I leave them out overnight. (I always leave the egg whites out on the kitchen counter, sometime for more than one day).
  • A word on almond flour: The almond flour has to be absolutely free of lumps, so you must sift it or press it through a sieve. Never skip this step—it’s imperative. (I follow the step and Dorie is right in insisting on sifting.)
  • A word on measuring: If you have a scale, use it to measure the ingredients for this recipe. You want equal weights of almond flour and confectioners’ sugar. You also want 150 ml of egg whites. That’s about 5 whites. It’s also easier to use the metric measure should you have to divide the egg whites in half. (I made half of the recipe: 100g each of almond flour and confectioners’ sugar and 75g of whites. It’s only possible in halving the recipe when you’re using a scale.)
  • A word on tools: Because you have to beat the egg whites and, at the same time, pour hot sugar syrup into the bowl, it’s best to work in the bowl of a stand mixer. You’ll also need a candy thermometer. And while you can certainly bake the macarons on parchment-lined baking sheets, this is a case in which silicone baking mats do a better job. (I totally agree with Dorie that the process flows better with a stand mixer as well as baking with silicone mats.)
  • My word on resting: When the macaron shells dry out, they can’t spread out in the oven, and are forced to rise up. That’s what creates the feet. That half hour of resting prior to baking is crucial.
  • A word on timing: Filled macarons need to soften in the refrigerator for at least 1 day. (Yes, aging is key, very much like the egg whites.)

Final thought on areas for potential improvement: The finished macarons do not have the same color or even sizes. The culprit may be the oven temperature. I might need to lower the oven temperature to 325°F. Making a template of 1-1/2 inch circles is also a good idea I should do going forward. The journey continues!

 

From the same batch, but resulted in different colors, why?

Parisian Macarons

By Dorie Greenspan Serves: 45 cookies

Whisk half of the egg whites in the stand mixer. Combine the other half with food coloring and the dry ingredients. The meringue dough is made by combining the Italian meringue with the almond mixture. Bake at 350°F after resting the piped cookie rounds.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (200 grams) almond flour (made from blanched almonds)
  • 1 2/3 cups (200 grams) confectioners' sugar
  • 5 large egg whites (150 milliliters), at room temperature
  • 1 drop food coloring (optional)
  • 1 cup (200 grams) sugar
  • 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) water
  • Choice of filling: chocolate ganache, white chocolate ganache, salted caramel filling, or jam

Instructions

1

PREPARE THE BAKING SHEETS: If you are going to bake the macarons on baking sheets lined with parchment paper, you might want to make a template. Using a cookie cutter as your guide, trace circles about 1 1/2 inches in diameter on each sheet of paper, leaving about 2 inches between them, then turn the papers over on the baking sheets. If you’re using silicone mats, there’s nothing to do but line the baking sheets with them. Fit a large pastry bag with a plain 1/2-inch tip. (Alternatively, you can use a zipper-lock bag -- fill the bag, seal it and snip off a corner.)

2

SIFT THE DRY INGREDIENTS: Place a strainer over a large bowl and press the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar through the mesh. This is a tedious job, but much depends on it, so be assiduous. Then whisk to blend.

3

ADD 1/2 OF EGG WHITES IN STAND MIXER: Put half of the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

4

ADD FOOD COLORING, EGG WHITES TO THE DRY INGREDIENTS: Add food coloring, if you’re using it, to the remaining egg whites, stir and then pour the whites over the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar. Using a flexible spatula, mix and mash the whites into the dry ingredients until you have a homogeneous paste.

5

COOK THE SUGAR SYRUP: Bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. If there are spatters on the sides of the pan, wash them down with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. Insert a candy thermometer and cook the syrup until it reaches 243-245°F. (This can take about 10 minutes.)

6

BEAT EGG WHITES: Beat the egg whites on medium speed until they hold medium-firm peaks. Reduce the mixer speed to low and keep mixing until the sugar syrup comes up to temperature.

7

POUR HOT SYRUP INTO THE MERINGUE: When the sugar syrup reaches the right temperature, take the pan off the heat and remove the thermometer. With the mixer on low speed, pour in the hot syrup, trying to pour it between the whirring whisk and the side of the bowl. You’ll have spatters -- it’s impossible not to -- but ignore them; whatever you do, don’t try to incorporate them into the meringue. Raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the meringue cools to room temperature, about 10 minutes -- you’ll be able to tell by touching the bottom of the bowl.

8

FOLD IN ALMOND MIXTURE: Give the almond flour mixture another turn with the spatula, then scrape the meringue over it and fold everything together. Don’t be gentle here: Use your spatula to cut through the meringue and almond mixture, bring some of the batter from the bottom up over the top and then press it against the side of the bowl. The action is the same as the one you used to get the egg whites into the almonds and sugar: mix and mash. Keep folding and mixing and mashing until when you lift the spatula, the batter flows off it in a thick band, like lava. If you want to add more food coloring, do it now.

9

PIPE THE COOKIES: Spoon half of the batter into the pastry bag (or zipper-lock bag) and, holding the bag vertically 1 inch above one of the baking sheets, pipe out 1 1/2-inch rounds. Don’t worry if you have a point in the center of each round -- it will dissolve into the batter. Holding the baking sheet with both hands, raise it about 8 inches above the counter and let it fall (unnerving but necessary to de-bubble the batter and promote smooth tops). Refill the bag, pipe batter onto the second sheet and drop it onto the counter.

10

REST THE COOKIES: Set the baking sheets aside in a cool, dry place to allow the batter to form a crust. When you can gingerly touch the top of the macarons without having batter stick to your finger, you’re ready to bake. (Depending on room temperature and humidity, this can take 15 to 30 minutes, sometimes more.) While the batter is crusting, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

11

BAKE: Bake the macarons, one sheet at a time, for 6 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 6 to 9 minutes, or until the macarons can be lifted from the mat or can be carefully peeled away from the paper. The bottoms will feel just a little soft. Slide the silicone mat or parchment off the baking sheet onto a counter and set aside to cool to room temperature. Repeat with the second baking sheet of macarons.

12

Peel the macarons off the silicone or parchment and match them up for sandwiching.

13

SANDWICH THE MACARONS: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. You can use a teaspoon or a piping bag to fill the macarons. It’s up to you to decide how much filling you’ll want to use; some pastry chefs use enough filling to form a layer about half as high as one of the shells and others make the filling as tall as a shell, so they’ve got equal layers of shell, filling and shell. Spoon or pipe some filling onto the flat side of a macaron and sandwich it with its mate, gently twisting the top macaron until the filling spreads to the edges. Repeat with the remaining macarons and filling, then put the macarons on the baking sheet and cover with plastic film. (Or, if it’s easier for you, pack the macs into a container.) Chill for at least 24 hours, or for up to 4 days.

14

SERVE: Macarons are usually served as an afternoon treat with tea or coffee or after dinner or sometimes even after dessert. Take them out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving. Storing: You must keep the macarons refrigerated for 1 day before serving, and they can stay in the fridge for up to 4 days. They can also be frozen, packed airtight, for up to 2 months; defrost, still wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator

Notes

https://food52.com/recipes/31624-parisian-macarons

Thermoworks Specials

ThermoWorks Thermapen Mk4 Backlit

You Might Also Like

7 Comments

  • Reply
    Mardi (eat. live. travel. write.)
    May 17, 2022 at 12:19 pm

    These are perfect! Well done!!

  • Reply
    Kim
    May 17, 2022 at 3:21 pm

    Yours are so perfect Shirley…I am even more embarrassed by mine hahaha. What did I do wrong…as soon as I was putting the sugar into the egg whites I could tell it wouldn’t be smooth 😳 there were just grains or crystals in the meringue…so too fast, too hot??
    I loved your story…and how incredible these were the first cookies you baked, nothing like taking on that challenge first !!

    • Reply
      Shirley@EverOpenSauce
      May 17, 2022 at 3:44 pm

      I did not have much luck with Italian meringue until this time. As much as I understand it, the trick is to use a brush with water to keep the crystals from forming. I’m still learning to do it right. No worry, Kim. It’s a process.

  • Reply
    Diane Zwang
    May 20, 2022 at 12:39 pm

    I see you went for the blush colors as well. I love the purple ones and wish I could have mastered that. These are a great cookie.

  • Reply
    Cakelaw
    May 21, 2022 at 1:35 am

    Your macarons look gorgeous, and thanks for all the tips. I am pleased to finally know why the feet form!

  • Reply
    steph (whisk/spoon)
    June 1, 2022 at 3:15 pm

    i definitely think the temp is on the high side…300ish is more the norm, and what i did this time around. these look great though, and i’m so impressed that you pretty much learned to bake with the tricky macaron! start hard, and everything else is easy!

  • We're open to your comments and suggestions!

    This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.