Pasta with Chopped Pesto and Peas

This pasta dish has a textured mix with bright pops of flavor, like a sauce, herb salad and nut garnish in one.

The elusive spring does not dampen my enthusiasm for the growing supply of herbs and vegetables. A new way of experiencing pasta with chopped pesto and peas draws me to the “chopping board.” Instead of blending the pesto in a food processor, I crush the roasted nuts in a pestle, and finely mince herb sprigs with a sharp chef knife — all by hand.

It might be a throwback in time. Isn’t the word pesto takes its name from the same root that gives us pestle, meaning to pound, crush or smash? At least once, any home cook should try this version for a renewed appreciation for what’s amazing about pesto and how best to make it. The finished dish has a more textured mix with bright pops of flavor, like a sauce, herb salad and nut garnish in one.

Most valuable player: the chef knife.

In Tuscany, pounding the pesto would be done with a half moon-shaped mezzaluna; it’s longstanding tradition. I use a hybrid approach (pestle and chef knife) since those are the best tools in my kitchen for the job. Although it may take longer than blending pesto in the food processor, but the resulting flavor is much more vivid than the processed variety.

It appeals to my senses smelling the earthy, floral and tarragon notes released when the basil leaves are broken down. The rough and irregular texture of the chopped pestle is eye-catching and tastier. I can’t help wanting more. Taken into the consideration the time it takes to clean the food processor, and the blade, I’m leaning in favor of the hand-chopped approach. Especially when I’m making a small batch for just one meal, chopped pesto is the way to go.

Pesto is versatile. In Liquria, where basil pesto originates, boiled little potatoes, green beans, halved cherry tomatoes, or wedges of sweet red tomatoes are often tossed into pasta al pesto at the last minute. In general, you may change up the nuts. Use pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts, pistachios or pecans. Change up the greens to use cooked greens of broccoli rabe, kale or chard. Consider raw tender greens of arugula, spinach or pea shoots. Herbs can be parsley, sage, marjoram, mint or a combination of mixed herbs. The traditional cheeses in a pesto sauce are Parmesan and pecorino Romano. But who’s stopping you from adding what’s you have on hand.

After you decide the methodology and the ingredients to use in the pesto sauce, which are many, one constant feature worth remembering is the ratio. See the chart below.

1 part nuts: 2 parts greens: 3 parts oil: 2 parts cheese. Recipe in “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat” by Samin Nosrat

A few tips and comments from Mark Bittman:

• The best pesto is made with a mortar and pestle. Few people will admit to using a food processor. But when you get into their kitchens, that’s just what they do. And so does Bittman himself.
• Don’t add the Parmesan until you’re ready to use the pesto. It helps to retain its bright green color.
• Drizzle a layer of olive oil over the top once you’ve put the pesto in a container. Herb pastes made with less oil do not keep as well, so eat them sooner rather than later.
• If you have a garden filled with basil, by all means make as much pesto as you can and freeze them. Make pesto in small quantities and enjoy it fresh.

Print Recipe

Pasta with Chopped Pesto and Peas

By Mark Bittman & The New York Times – Serves: 4

A handmade pesto like the way nona makes it with a pestle as well as a sharp chef knife. Using whatever nuts and herbs/greens you have on hand, this pesto is versatile and fun to play with. To make a small patch, the chopped pesto may be faster and, for sure, tastier than the processed variety. This pasta dish has a more textured mix with bright pops of flavor, like a sauce, herb salad and nut garnish in one.

Ingredients

• Kosher salt
• ½ cup/ 55g raw walnuts, pine nuts, pistachios, almonds or a combination
• 1 cup/ 100g Parmesan, plus more for serving
• 1 large garlic clove
• 2 packed cups/ 100g soft herbs, such as basil, parsley, mint, or arugula
• 1/2 cup/ 175ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1 pound curly pasta, such as casarecce or fusilli
• 2 cups frozen peas

Instructions

1

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a small or medium skillet over medium heat, toast nuts, shaking the skillet occasionally until browned (try one to see), 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to pestle and coarsely mash the nuts. Set aside for the pesto and save some for garnishing.

2

As the nuts cool, into a large bowl, grate the Parmesan on the small holes of a box grater.

3

Using a sharp chef knife, chop a handful of the herbs with a pinch of salt. (Opt for forceful, purposeful chops.) Toss and smash the mixture every few chops. Repeat with the remaining herbs, salting at each step. Add the nuts, garlic clove and a pinch of salt to the greens, continue to chop, until a wet coarse paste forms. Stir in half of the cheese, then stir in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. In the last 3 minutes of cooking, add the peas to the pasta. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain. Add the pasta and peas to the pesto and stir to combine. Add pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper, more oil and more Parmesan. Add nuts for the extra crunch.

Notes

Adapted from https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1023105-pasta-with-chopped-pesto-and-peas