Honeynut Squash with Chestnut | Democratizing Seeds

Roasted honeynut squash with chestnut, cinnamon and fresh bay leaves

No one can tell the story of honeynut squash better than Dan Barber. He made a compelling case for democratizing better seeds, honeynut squash being a prime example, at the Food Tank Summit in New York City last week. After all, he’s the creator and collaborator in developing Honeynut as a nutrient-dense and improved version of the butternut squash.

Ten years ago, Michael Mazourek, an associate professor in Plant Breeding and Genetics at Cornell University, had dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. During the tour to the kitchen, Barber challenged Mazourek to shrink the butternut squash he’s holding in his hand — and make it taste better. Fast forward several years, the crop has become a quick success. Over 90% of the squash farmers in the Northeast grow Honeynut squash. Now we are able to buy honeynut in the local markets. (I bought these at Wegmans.) Soon, you’ll find them in markets near you. For the time being, we can buy the seeds at Row 7, a seed company founded by Barber and Mazourek, and support the plant breeding research efforts at Cornell.

Honeynuts have a natural sweetness that become rich and caramel-y when roasted. In addition, you don’t have to peel because they have thin skin (similar to a delicata) and have three times the amount of beta-carotene, an antioxidant. For this post, I adapted a straightforward roasted pumpkin recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi. Substituted it with the Honeynut squash while reducing the amount of maple syrup; I didn’t think the syrup was much needed.

You hear it again and again that most vegetables in our food system are bred for long-distance travel, storage, uniformity and water (we the consumers pay by size or weight and most of it water). Notably, chefs are driving the movement of breeding for flavor and deliciousness. Besides Dan Barber, René Redzepi and Massimo Bottura are among the chefs who have fallen in love with the small Honeynuts and put them on their menus. Even Blue Apron got into the act by placing a big order for the squash in 2017. I believe this is a small victory, not only for the miniature squash — but for food lovers everywhere.

This is my first post on Honeynut squash and there will be more. Dan Barber prepares a puree at Blue Hill using both the meat of the squash and the seeds. (No part of the squash is wasted.) Making a soup is another superb way to bring out its sweetness and the deep honey color. Honeynut offers delicious flavor in a tiny and nutrient-rich package. The ease of preparation is another advantage for the homecook; no peeling is necessary. Almost the entire squash can be eaten. Can’t wait to find more ways to showcase this exciting newcomer in the squash family.

Print Recipe

Roasted Honeynut squash with chestnut, cinnamon & fresh bay leaves

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 medium squash, about 1.3kg
• 6 tbsp olive oil
• 4 cinnamon sticks
• 4 tbsp maple syrup (reduced to 1 tbsp)
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 20 fresh sage leaves
• 10 fresh bay leaves
• Salt and black pepper
• 150g cooked chestnuts

Instructions

1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the unpeeled squash into wedges (1-2 cm at the thick end) and discard the seeds; leave the skin on. In a large bowl, toss the squash pieces with four tablespoons of olive oil, the cinnamon, one tablespoon of maple syrup, the garlic, sage, half the bay leaves, and salt and pepper. Lay out in a single layer in a large roasting pan and roast for 20-25 minutes, until the squash is soft and golden. Add the chestnuts five minutes before the end.

2

Arrange the tray's contents on a serving platter and scatter the remaining bay leaves over the top. Stir together the remaining syrup and oil, and drizzle on top. Serve warm.

Notes

https://ottolenghi.co.uk/recipes/vegetable/roasted-pumpkin-wedges-with-chestnut-cinnamon-fresh-bay-leaves-shop