bread with preferment/ Chad Robertson/ Jim Lahey/ Ken Forkish/ Levain bread/ Peter Reinhart/ sourdough/ whole grain

Royal Crown Tortano with Emmer | Happy 10th Anniversary BBB

Royal crown tortano is the first bread the online baking group Bread Baking Babes (BBB) baked in 2008. Ten years and 120 breads later, the group is revisiting its inaugural bread. Happy anniversary to BBB whose bread baking prowess is still going strong after a decade. That’s extraordinary considered the rapid rate of change nowadays. See the recipe and more about the bread from Tanna in My Kitchen in Half Cups.

Back in 2008, I had yet encountered yeast, let alone baking breads. That was the year when Peter Reinhart published Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor. That was not on my radar screen back then. Didn’t have a clue what the fuss was all about!

Artisan bread baking has made remarkable strides in the last decade. Consider Jim Lahey’s My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method, published in 2009. Then Ken Forkish’s Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza and Chad Roberston’s Tartine Bread emerged in 2012 and 2013, respectively. These were game changers. The use of low-acid, young natural leaven, ample hydration, gentle kneading and a long slow rise seems to be such a natural way in bread-making. Moreover, that’s how I’ve learned to bake. Sourdough breads have become the highly anticipated and de rigueur bakes from my home oven.

I approached the royal crown tortano with some adaptations of my own. Used a sourdough starter with 50/50 all-purpose and whole wheat flour blend. Added 30% (of total flour weight) whole wheat, mostly in freshly milled emmer (an ancient grain with more pronounced nutty and grassy flavor) to the dough. Autolysed the flours and the premix. Added salt after mixing. Performed series of stretch-and-folds to strengthen the dough during the first rise and cold retard in the fridge after bulk fermentation. Lastly, I baked the dough in a Dutch oven.

My intention was to turn the dough into the shape of the crown according to the recipe. But it didn’t happen. I found it difficult to put a hole in the middle due to the very wet and slack dough. In my mind, it was the choice between the hole or the bubbles. So I kept my hands light and created an indentation in the midst of the ball of dough. No hole, as a result. Just a crater. In the end, the bread was everything I’ve expected. Crusty and open irregular crumb even with 30% whole grains in the mix.

 

 

Royal Crown Tortano

Serves: one loaf

Ingredients

  • Pre-Ferment Ingredients:
  • 15 gm sourdough starter
  • 100gm water 105 - 115° F
  • 50gm all-purpose flour
  • 50gm whole wheat flour
  • 85gm (1 small) potato
  • Dough Ingredients:
  • 425gm (3+3/4 cups) unbleached bread flour
  • 150gm freshly milled emmer flour
  • 420gm (1+3/4 cups plus 3 Tbsp) water, lukewarm
  • 200gm pre-ferment
  • 11gm (2 tsp) honey
  • 70gm (1/4 cup packed) potato puree
  • 16gm (scant 1 tablespoon) salt

Instructions

1

Make the pre-ferment: Stir the starter into the water in a glass bowl. Add flour and stir until the ingredients are well combined. Cover with plastic wrap and let it ferment until it is full of bubbles, about 12 hours. If your kitchen is very warm and the pre-ferment is fermenting very quickly, place it in the refrigerator after 3 hours of fermenting. In the morning, remove it and allow it to come to room temperature 30 minutes to an hour before beginning the final dough

2

Prepare the Potato: For efficiency, you may want to prepare the potato the night before. Quarter it, then boil it in water to cover until it can be easily pierced with a knife tip, about 20 minutes. Drain and press the potato through a ricer or sieve to puree it and remove the skin. Store it in a covered container in the refrigerator. You will need only 1/4 cup puree.

3

Mix the dough:

4

By Hand: Use your hands to mix the flour and water into a rough, very wet dough in a large bowl. Cover the dough and let rest (autolyse) for 10 - 20 minutes.

5

Add the pre-ferment, honey, potato, and salt, and knead the dough until it is smooth, 5 - 10 minutes. It will start off feeling rubbery, then break down into goo; if you persist, eventually it will come together into a smooth, shiny dough. If you do not have the skill or time to knead it to smoothness, the bread will not suffer. This is a tremendously wet and sticky dough, so use a dough scraper to help you but do not add more flour, for it will ruin the texture of the bread.

6

By Stand Mixer: With your hands or a wooden spoon, mix the flour and water into a rough, very wet dough in the work bowl of your mixer. Cover the dough and let it rest (autolyse) for 10 - 20 minutes. Fit the mixer with the dough hook. Add the pre-ferment, honey, potato and salt and the mix the dough on medium speed for 15 - 20 minutes, or until very silky and wraps around the hook and cleans the bowl before splaterring back around the bowl. This dough is almost pourably wet.

7

Bulk Ferment: Place the dough in a container at least 3 times its size and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let it ferment until doubled in bulk and filled with large air bubbles, about 4 hours. Using wet hands, turn the dough 4 times in 20 minute intervals, that is, after 20, 40, 60, and 80 minutes of fermenting, the leave the dough undisturbed for the remaining time. Do not allow this dough to over ferment or ferment to the point of collapse, for the flavor and structure of your bread will suffer.

8

Shaping and Proofing the Dough: Turn the fermented dough out onto a well floured work surface, round it and let it rest for 20 minutes. Sprinkle a couche or wooden board generously with flour. Slip a baking sheet under the couche if you are using one for support.

9

Sprinkle a generous amount of flour over the center of the ball. Push your fingers into the center to make a hole, the rotate your hand around the hole to widen it, making a large 4 inch opening. The bread should have about 12 inch diameter.

10

Place the dough smooth side down on the floured couche or board and dust the surface with more flour. Drape it with plastic wrap and let it proof until it is light and slowly springs back when lightly pressed, about 1 1/2 hours.

11

Preheat the Oven: Immediately after shaping the bread, arrange a rack on the oven's second to top shelf and place a baking stone on it. Clear away all the racks above the one being used. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees (230 C).

12

Baking the Bread: Unwrap the bread and flip it onto a floured peel or a sheet of parchment paper. Do not worry about damaging the bread as you handle it; it will recover in the oven as long as it is not over-proofed. Slash it with 4 radial cuts in the shape of a cross. Slide the loaf onto the hot baking stone and bake until it is very dark brown, 40 -50 minutes, rotating it halfway into the bake. Let the bread cool on a rack.

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8 Comments

  • Reply
    Kelly
    February 27, 2018 at 1:54 pm

    Fantastic loaf! You got beautiful color and crumb. Love that you tried out sourdough.

  • Reply
    MyKitchenInHalfCups
    March 3, 2018 at 4:19 pm

    I am in awe. Yes, a nice clean hole in the middle might have been nice but what you did demonstrates where all of us should aspire. You recognized what you were dealing with and responded to the dough based on it’s individuality. Once you’ve baked a few loaves and gotten some dough wisdom, this is the way a wise baker bakes! (It’s also how my grad professor taught was the sign of an excellent parent: responds to each child as an individual.
    You baked a glorious loaf. Gorgeous color and crumb, magnificent holes!

  • Reply
    Royal Crown BBB Buddy! | MyKitchenInHalfCups
    March 3, 2018 at 4:32 pm

    […] She claims to have been baking bread less than 10 years. If that’s the case she’s a very fast learner and demonstrates wisdom beyond those baking years with this Royal Crown Tortano with Emmer. […]

  • Reply
    Karen Baking Soda
    March 3, 2018 at 5:18 pm

    Gorgeous loaf! I really like your adaptations and am very charmed by the cute hole in the middle, it sits there so sweetly.

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