Squash, Butter beans and Thyme | Heirloom Beans

What Nigel Slater calls butter beans is the same as white lima beans in the US. Butter beans generally refer to the mature flat, white lima beans. The canned varieties are creamier in texture than dried lima beans or young, green limas. But they fall short in terms of flavor as the squash, butter beans and thyme dish clearly shows.

I’m turning to beans as a pantry staple during the recent lockdown. They are easy to keep, inexpensive, nutritious and a good source of protein. Meanwhile, I’m been finding and cooking with a variety of heirloom beans. That opens a whole world of exciting possibilities.

I got into heirloom beans the same way I got into heirloom flours. As a consumer, you are supporting small local growers as well as agricultural diversity. These small grain and bean companies may suggest a better path for business and the food industry. It’s time to rethink the bigger-is-better, dominate-the-industry, growth-focused, commodity-based business model that makes the US economy oligarchical and homogenous. There are reasons to remake an ecosystem of companies that are better, fairer and more innovative. More than ever, my bets — and hopes — are with these heirloom growers and suppliers.

In the new normal, I’ll be turning my attention to heirloom beans. To my surprise, fresh dry beans, are faster to cook and tastes creamier and richer. With a few simple ingredients: squash, onions and thyme, that’s all the butter beans need to shine. This is a game changer. Sometimes the best thing comes in small neat bundles which bring joy and revelation in equal measure!

Print Recipe

Pumpkin, butter beans and thyme by Nigel Slater

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients

• small pumpkin or onion squash 1 kg
• groundnut or vegetable oil 50ml
• onions 2, medium
• thyme 8 sprigs
• vegetable stock 750ml
• butter beans 1 x 400g can

Instructions

1

Slice the pumpkin or squash in half and scoop out the seeds and fibres. Cut each half into thick segments, as if you were slicing a melon. Warm the oil in a baking dish over a moderate heat, place the segments cut side down and fry until the underside is golden brown, a matter of 5 minutes, then turn and cook the other side.

2

While the pumpkin browns, peel and halve the onions then slice each half into six pieces. Lift the pumpkin from the dish and set aside. Put the onion into the hot oil and cook for 10 minutes or so, stirring regularly, until it is soft and pale gold. Add the thyme sprigs, a little salt and some ground black pepper. Set the oven at 200°C/ 400°F.

3

Return the pumpkin to the dish, then pour in the vegetable stock and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover with a lid, and leave to simmer for 20 minutes. Drain the beans then add them to the stock. Replace the lid and transfer to the oven, leaving it to bake for 45 minutes.

4

For the final 10 minutes of cooking, remove the lid. Serve in shallow bowls, ladling the thyme-scented stock over the slices of pumpkin and spoonfuls of beans.

Notes

https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/nov/24/nigel-slater-pumpkin-butter-beans-and-thyme-and-roast-quince-with-honey-recipes