Siu Mai | Steamed Pork and Jícama Dumplings

Every time I walk by the Trader Joe’s freezer section and see siu mai, I want some to go. One little bite of the juicy, bouncy and delicious dumpling is all I need. But the baker and homecook in me has been resisting the temptation. Siu mai or steamed pork dumplings are among the most popular items in any dim sum restaurant.

Now you don’t even have to travel to Hong Kong to experience these authentic Southern Chinese specialties. Recently, the “world’s most inexpensive Michelin starred restaurant,” Tim Ho Wan, opens shops in two locations in Manhattan.

Siu mai is the easiest kind of dumpling to make because of the open tops. You can mount the pork fillings in the center of the wrapper and gather the edges of the wrapper to form a small cylinder. Who says they have to be perfect? By and large, my inexperienced shaping technique has not compromised the taste of these siu mai.

Although I do insist on making my own wrappers — when all you need are pantry staples. Nothing more than, say, flour, salt, egg and water. With a pasta machine on hand and a little patience, the resulting wrappers are better than any store-bought varieties. (I don’t say that about homemade pasta.) My worst fear about the commercial ones is having to put up with wonton wrappers I don’t like and don’t know what to do with the leftovers.

To make the wrappers: I start with one large egg, 167 grams of all-purpose flour, 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 33 grams of water. To get that characteristic yellow tone of the siu mai wrapper, add 1/4 teaspoon of turmeric to the dry ingredients.

Mix all the ingredients in the stand mixer at medium speed until they form a soft and coherent mass, about 5-8 minutes. Add more water, if necessary. The dough is not sticky to handle at all. Let it rest under cover for 30 minutes. Then, proceed to roll the dough in the pasta machine and cut into 3-inch rounds. Cover the finished wrappers with a damp kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out. Set aside until you are ready to assemble the siu mai.

Now the hard part: the pork filling. I find the steamed pork and jicama dumplings recipe in The Gourmet Cookbook, edited by Ruth Reichl. The recipe appeals to me because of the jicama, which is native to Central America. It’s crunchy, like a water chestnut, but sweeter. Trader Joe’s sells pre-cut jicama sticks as snacks. Best of all, it’s much easier to peel than a bunch of smallish fresh water chestnuts, if you can find them. Is jicama the proper solution? Does it provide the desirable crunch and springiness to the siu mai?

Yes and no. Jicama is the perfect counterpoint to the soft and mushy pork fillings. It is a step (or an ingredient) in the right direction. However, the texture of the siu mai is still too mushy, as compared to that from the restaurants. They shouldn’t take on the loose texture like Italian meatballs. I’m looking for a little springiness and resistance as you bite into the pork fillings.

What could I do to get that springy, light and desirable texture of siu mai?

• Use a piece of pork loin and cut it into small chunks in the food processor instead of using ground pork. Soak in water. Change water a few times until the meat is lightened and the water runs clear. Dry thoroughly. (See this recipe for reference.)
• Add 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda (at 1:3 ratio with water) to the pork fillings.
• Fold and slap the pork fillings a few times to help break down the glycoprotein of the meat.

The steamed pork and jicama dumplings recipe is work in progress. At least, I know what I need to make siu mai as good as those available in dim sum restaurants.

Print Recipe

Steamed Pork and Jícama Dumplings

Serves: Makes 60

Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hour

Ingredients

• 1 large egg white
• 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
• 2 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup diced (1/4 inch) peeled jicama
• 1/2 cup minced scallion
• 1 1/2 pound ground pork (not lean)
• 60 wonton wrappers (from two 12- to 14-ounce packages), thawed if frozen
• 2 tablespoons black or white sesame seeds, toasted
• small shrimps or peas, as garnish (optional)
• Special equipment: a 3-inch round cookie cutter; a metal steamer or bamboo steamer
• Accompaniment: soy dipping sauce
• For Soy Dipping Sauce:
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
• 4 teaspoons sugar
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallion

Instructions

1

Make filling:

2

Lightly whisk egg white in a large bowl, then whisk in ginger, garlic, peanut oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar, and salt. Add jicama, scallion, and pork and mix together with your hands until combined well.

3

Assemble dumplings:

4

Separate wonton wrappers and restack in piles of 10. Cut through each stack with cookie cutter and discard trimmings. Arrange 6 rounds on a work surface (keep remaining rounds covered with plastic wrap) and mound a scant tablespoon filling in center of each. Lightly moisten edge of wrappers with a finger dipped in water. Working with 1 at a time and leaving dumpling on flat surface, gather edge of wrapper around side of filling, pleating wrapper to form a cup and pressing pleats against filling (leave dumpling open at top). Flatten filling flush with edge of wrapper with wet finger and transfer dumpling to a tray. Top with small shrimps or peas as garnishes. Make more dumplings in same manner with remaining rounds and filling.

5

Steam dumplings:

6

Generously oil bottom of colander-steamer insert and bring a few inches of water to a boil in pot so that bottom of insert sits above water. Arrange 10 dumplings, about 1/2 inch apart, in insert and steam over moderate heat, covered, until dough is translucent and filling is just cooked through, about 6 minutes.

7

Stir together black and white sesame seeds and sprinkle over dumplings. Serve immediately.

8

Cooks' note:

9

·Dumplings (without sesame seeds) can be formed and steamed 1 day ahead and cooled completely, then chilled, covered. Steamed dumplings can also be frozen 1 week; freeze in 1 layer on a plastic-wrapped tray until hardened, then transfer to a sealable plastic bag. Reheat (do not thaw if frozen) in colander-steamer insert over simmering water (over low heat) until heated through, about 6 minutes.

10

To Make Soy Dipping Sauce:

11

Stir together soy sauce, water, vinegar, and sugar until sugar is dissolved. Just before serving, stir in scallion.

Notes

Adapted from https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/steamed-pork-and-jicama-dumplings-108158